Gardenia grows fastest in summer. If you grow it like this, the pot will be full in 10 days and all the yellow leaves will be gone!

Gardenia grows fastest in summer. If you grow it like this, the pot will be full in 10 days and all the yellow leaves will be gone!

Key point 1: Yellow leaves, what to do?

In the summer, when caring for gardenias, the leaves are most likely to turn yellow, wilt, and burn. There are three main reasons for this: yellowing due to water, yellowing due to fertilizer, and iron deficiency.

Water yellow

Symptoms: From bottom to top, old leaves turn yellow first, followed by new leaves; the entire leaf gradually turns yellow from the veins.

Reasons: 1. Watering too much and too frequently, causing water accumulation; 2. The soil in the pot is too wet and sticky, and the pot has poor air permeability; 3. The leaves on the bottom layer are too dense and there is no ventilation.

Solution: Place the gardenia in a cool and ventilated place, and trim the dense and long branches and leaves to increase air permeability. If the roots have rotted, you should change the soil and pot immediately, and choose a clay pot with good air permeability.

Fat Yellow

Symptoms: Old leaves and veins turn yellow first, and then the whole leaf turns yellow gradually.

Solution: When the fertilizer turns yellow, change the water in the pot several times, or water the roots with a trickle of water for about half an hour to dilute the overly concentrated fertilizer in the soil.

Iron deficiency

Symptoms: Yellowing caused by iron deficiency is a chlorosis disease. The leaves appear light yellow or white-green, while the veins remain green. In severe cases, the entire leaves turn yellow-white or even dry up and fall off.

Solution: When iron is deficient, spray fermented alum fertilizer water or 0.1% ferrous sulfate.

Key point 2: What to do if it wilts?

Large-leaf gardenias that have just been bought from the greenhouse or flower market are most likely to have wilting leaves. The main reason is that the leaves are large and dense, the air humidity is too low, and the water evaporates too quickly.

Solution: Gardenia requires higher air humidity. First trim the dense branches and leaves, then spray around the leaves 2 to 3 times a day to keep them moist.

Key point 3: What should I do if the flower buds fall off?

Potted gardenias are most likely to drop flowers during the summer bud stage.

Solution:

1. Water during the bud stage, but do not spray the buds;

2. Do not change the pot during the bud stage, as this may damage the root system;

3. When the soil is alkaline, you can spray a mixture of diluted vinegar and ferrous sulfate.

Gardenia Care Tips


1. Soil

Gardenia relies more on acidic soil with strong air permeability and good drainage. Generally, pine needle soil, leaf mold, and a mixture of fine sand and gravel can be used.

2. Watering: Gardenia likes moist air and avoids waterlogging. Watering should follow the principle of watering when the soil is dry and wet when the soil is wet. When the temperature is high in summer, you can water the soil in the pot shallowly until it is moist, without watering it thoroughly.

3. Light: Gardenia is a strong sun-loving flower with relatively high requirements for light and ventilation. Maintain 50% to 60% south-facing light every day to avoid direct sunlight. When the temperature rises above 30 degrees, the large-leaf gardenia must be shaded by 50% outdoors, or exposed to the sun in the morning and evening, and shaded at noon.

4. Fertilization: Gardenia likes fertilizer, but newly planted gardenias do not need any fertilizer. After the seedling period, apply fermented bean cake, sesame paste residue, peanut bran and other fertilizers or potassium dihydrogen phosphate once every 1 to 2 weeks. No fertilizer is applied when the temperature is above 35℃ in summer and below 15℃ in autumn.

In addition, using thoroughly fermented rice water or fruit peel water to water gardenias can not only increase nutrients, but also loosen the soil and adjust the acidity, which is beneficial rather than harmful to flowering.

5. Pruning: During the vigorous growth period from May to July, the overgrown branches at the top and the dense and thin branches at the bottom should be pruned to increase ventilation. After the flower buds grow, leave 2 to 3 on each thick branch and 1 on each weak branch, and cut off the rest of the flower buds and the surrounding idle leaves; after the flowers fade, trim the remaining flowers, dead branches and old leaves on the lower part of the branches.

That’s all Huahua will share with you today.

Have all the flower lovers learned it?

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