Can Amaryllis not dormant indoors in winter? (Can imported Amaryllis not dormant and bloom?)

During the growth period of Amaryllis, we need to apply some balanced fertilizers of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium to make its roots, bulbs and leaves grow stronger and healthier. This will help differentiate flower buds better after dormancy, and the flowers will be larger and brighter! Speaking of dormancy, some flower lovers will ask: Why does Amaryllis need to dormant?

Amaryllis hibernates indoors in winter

Dormancy is a natural law of Amaryllis during its growth and flowering period. It is okay not to dormant , but the quality of Amaryllis' flowering will definitely deteriorate in the later stage if it does not dormant .

Amaryllis rarely differentiates flower buds during the growth period. Reasonable dormancy can appropriately adjust its flowering period . This can better and earlier differentiate flower buds and avoid the phenomenon of only growing leaves without blooming.

Hibernation mode of Amaryllis

Natural hibernation

   In the north, the temperature drops significantly after the frost, and frost begins to appear. When the temperature is below 10 degrees, the leaves of the amaryllis plant kept outdoors will slowly turn yellow and dry, entering a natural dormant state.

At this time, we can put the flower pot in a cool and ventilated place indoors, stop watering and fertilizing, and wait until spring comes, it will naturally revive and send out new leaves and flower buds. If you water it during dormancy, it will cause the bulb to rot. Some bulbs have rotten roots, so you can remove the pot and put it dry .

Forced sleep

   If you want it to bloom during the Spring Festival or at a specific time, you need to use some means to induce dormancy in places like the north where it is kept indoors and has heating, or in the south where the winter is relatively warm.

In mid-to-late October or early November, you can stop watering and fertilizing Amaryllis for two months, at least one and a half months. After the leaves dry up, remove the dead leaves and place them in a cool and ventilated place. If you are in a hurry, you can cut off the leaves in advance.

After two months of dormancy, water the flowerpot thoroughly and place it in a warm and well-lit place to wake it up. Keep the room temperature above 15 degrees, and then apply some phosphorus and potassium fertilizers appropriately.

Dig out the bulbs and store them in the refrigerator

Some experienced flower lovers will dig out the bulbs and refrigerate them for preservation, which will make the dormancy more thorough and achieve better results. However, if they are replanted after the dormancy period, they will need to take root again, which can easily cause root rot .

For us ordinary flower lovers, it is better to let the plant dormant in the original pot , unless you have propagated a lot of small bulbs and need to divide them, that is another matter.

For some amaryllis that have bloomed or have been planted for a long time, forced dormancy can be put into place. However, for amaryllis that have been planted for a short time and have a smaller bulb, it is best not to force dormancy and let them grow according to natural laws.

Of course, we can't be so absolute. Some flower lovers' amaryllis do not hibernate in winter and will bloom in the spring of the following year. Some varieties of amaryllis even hibernate in summer, such as Glass, Mei Ne, Buca, etc.

However, after a period of dormancy, Amaryllis accumulates nutrients, and its flower bud differentiation ability will be better , and its future flowering will be much better than that of Amaryllis that has not been dormant.

The dormancy of Amaryllis is more of a manifestation of accumulating strength. It is not like the summer succulent dormancy to save life, it is for better flowering. The roses we raise dormant in winter are also for better flowering in spring !